Akagera

February 9, 2011

African sunrises are beautiful, but not at 5:30 AM. I don’t find very much beautiful at that hour. But, that’s when I woke up today, and by 6:15, our three Land Cruisers arrived to bring us to Akagera, Rwanda’s national park and safari. The ride there was scenic… and quite bumpy. Rwandans are early risers, so by this hour, many people were walking toward village centers, baskets on their heads, children carrying bags of rice and jerry cans of water on their shoulders (they looked no more than three or four years old), people on bicycles (there is no such thing as a one-person bike in Rwanda. Most are at least two per bicycle, some cram three), walking their bicycles full of goods. No matter how heavy or how tired they were, everyone stopped when our trucks passed, screaming and waving and pointing (of course, a chorus of “Muzungu!” was quick to follow). I could only imagine what they were thinking, watching three SUVs full of white women (with the exception of Matt, the one boy on our trip), wearing bandanas and sneakers, kick up dust and disrupt their day. Once I again, I looked down at my North Face backpack by my feet and at my full water bottle, realizing how lucky I am to be in Rwanda, to have this experience, to have water to drink and snacks in my bag. It may have been too early for me to feel like being awake, but there is no specific time of day to feel thankful. That, I think, should be all day, every day.

By 8:00 we arrived at Akagera. My stomach had been sufficiently bounced around (luckily breakfast was half a protein bar so it was digesting like glue anyway) and I needed a little rest before more off-roading (this madness made our Jeep tours in Israel look very tame). However, no such luck. We piled into the Land Cruisers once again and began the safari – first, the giraffe area. Akagera was once about 2,500 square kilometers, more than double it is now. During the genocide, many of the animals were killed and the reservation was cut more than in half; some land was given to local farmers and other parts were never given any attention. However, it is still beautiful. We saw giraffes, zebras, an elephant, monkeys, hippos and a crocodile; this was a reminder of how alive Rwanda is. Despite facing complete destruction and turmoil less than seventeen years ago, the country and its people are recovering. All over the reservation were signs for “land rehabilitation,” new building and planting projects that will refurbish Akagera. Our guide, Daio (day-yo), explained Akagera’s history to us, and thought our screaming when we hit huge bumps, scraping the bottom of the truck, was hysterical. We also had more than a minor encounter with the tsisi (with a tzadik) flies. They completely took over our car, and we resorted to using Brinley’s flip-flops as fly swatters. Eventually, we defeated them, but it took quite a bit of effort.

The animals were unbelievable and our driver, Suadey (swa-day), was awesome. He made sure we were the first car (also because our guide Daio was riding with us) so everyone else got stuck in our dust (hehe). On the way back to the village we stopped at a gas station/ convenience store to pick up some groceries, and lo and behold, we found Coke. Refrigerated Coke. I’m pretty sure we bought the woman out of cans and bottles of Coca Cola (bottles can’t be taken out of stores in Rwanda because they are recycled and used again). I don’t EVER drink regular Coke, but it was awesome – cold, refreshing and completely necessary. I also tried a Rwandan samosa, which was likely goat meat and veggies (it was certainly meat, I’m just not totally sure from what animal) in spicy dough cooked in oil. It was delicious. Snack of champions after a day safari-ing.

So, I’ve been up for over thirteen hours and it’s not even 7 PM. Yet, I once again find myself in awe of Rwanda. It is a very beautiful country and its people are incredible. Most live in poverty so awful that I cannot even describe; it is something you have to see, but the children run happily in the streets, waving and clapping and so excited to see us. People find such happiness and beauty in their lives, in places like Akagera that are proof of life and health and peace here. I try not to wonder, but when I see people like Suadey and Daio, I can’t help but think where they were sixteen years ago, how they survived and how they recaptured their lives. I know that they don’t think like this, that they focus on their present lives and moving forward, and I know I should do the same. It’s difficult to imagine these people in a time so chaotic and dangerous; to look at them and their country now, you wouldn’t guess that such a disaster had taken place, only that they are striving to make their country better, stronger, healthier and safer. Sometimes I have to stop and appreciate where I am, what I’m doing and just how incredible this opportunity is. I know I don’t say it enough, but thank you to everyone who encouraged me (and allowed me) to make this journey. It’s changing my life one animal, one child screaming “Muzungu” with their nose pressed against the Land Cruiser, one family time, one pineapple and one eye-opening moment at a time.

Thanks (Marakoze, in Kinyarwanda), love and peace from Rwanda,
Elana